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A COUPLE OF SUGGESTIONS WHEN SETTING UP YOUR T TYPE BOAT

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 PostPosted: December 22nd, 2019, 12:22 pm   
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Most people think you need to use steering bar cable steering, dual cable or hydraulic steering to make the boat more controllable especially with a raised motor.
100% true if its a race boat and you have driving skills to drive a T type V hull at 60 mph plus.
MANY just can't drive one of these boats.

SO in the beginning keep it SIMPLE.
You can raise the motor safely so the top of the bullet on the lower unit is parallel to the bottom of the boat.
At this engine height you need a chopper or cleaver prop. Loan one if you can.

Even if you have power trim......set the motor 10 to 20% positive.....do not play with the trim while testing....only make the adjustment after testing.
Get use to the feel of the boat running on the very back of the pad. For turning practice just backing off the throttle and getting back on the throttle once the boat sets for the turn.....You must develop a comfortable feel for the boat's wild ride.....It's all in the hands and in your butt.

IF? you feel the boat is TOO difficult to handle with single ride-guide type steering.
TRY:
- attaching shock cords to the back of the engine cowl to the hooks on the transom.
- shock cord the mid to the same transom hooks.
- if possible make a simple loop cable system similar to the old boats. You use the cable, pulleys, clamps, springs and engine connector.
You attach the connector on the motor and run the cable around and under the deck in a circle. You can tighten the tension on the
motor by adjusting the spring pressure. This holds the motor in place and eliminates the gear play in the steering.

FACTS:
Smaller diameter props are easier to drive
Chopper props easier to drive
T boats are very comfortable running 50 to 55 mph.
Challenging at 60 to 65
VERY difficult at 69 to 73
over 75 your going to get WET sooner than later

PROPELLERS
Always a good idea to watch RON Hill for propellers.
Sometimes he will have good prices $225.00 US for good T boat props.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/prop19/m.html? ... 7675.l2562


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 PostPosted: December 22nd, 2019, 1:19 pm   
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To those with the knowledge or ability, it would be good for you to post where someone could acquire the aircraft-cable/string steering, or where a new racer could get that type of rigging fully installed... Maybe a list of vendors and folks that can be hired to install the race ready steering..?

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Delta T750 Yamaha 55
1989 Voodoo Yamaha 70
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 PostPosted: December 22nd, 2019, 5:51 pm   
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One option from the USA.
http://www.wintechenginemachine.com/cat ... Prices.pdf

another
https://www.btmco.com/Steering_Systems.html


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 PostPosted: December 22nd, 2019, 11:22 pm   
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Sometimes you can find these older model dual rack steering systems
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment. ... 1357755519

http://peterborough.usedboatsforyou.com ... 70262.html

They were originally made by Morse...Teleflex sells new ones SH5097P and cables are available.
The cables bolt thru the rack so you likely can modify the rack to use different cables if necessary.

You can turn one rack in the opposite direction and have opposed dual steering.
They work very well.
https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/media ... 520556.jpg

HOW GOOD ARE THEY? S&F QUOTE!
The Mercury dual ride-guide system is a push/pull rack system. Also Teleflex made a dual rack push/pull system too. They are both technically NLA but you can find parts for them if you look hard enough. I have the teleflex dual rack on my boat and it works great. The racks bolt to the helm. Installation was a breeze. I have replaced one cable in 6 years of owning my boat.


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 PostPosted: December 23rd, 2019, 7:34 am   
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As Don mentioned Brown Tool and Machine is good, Lee Tietze at https://machinedcomponentsracingproducts.com/ has some good stuff. Most of there stuff is for dash mounted steering. I’m not sure who is making a steering drum for open cockpit style if you want it behind the dash. You can check with Top Gun to see if he has any drums left. I don’t think Geigertec is making any more, Brent might be able to get some made up.

Steering rope can be picked up at any store that sells sailing cordage you are looking for Dyneema and Spectra cored rope with a polyester cover.

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 PostPosted: December 24th, 2019, 2:25 pm   
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Awesome info guys. Im re-thinking my my steering for next season.


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 PostPosted: January 4th, 2020, 8:17 pm   
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On the video section I have posted many races showing the mid 80's to 1990 FE/EP races.
You can learn a lot watching them.
Those boats had no power trim so you couldn't instantly adjust the set up on the boat to control it. You had to drive thru the problem!
The drivers with the most experience were normally the front runners.
Success was based knowing how to set up your boat and how to drive it with that set up...and some luck. especially getting a good draw start position on the dock.
I learned most of the OMC racers during this time frame were not aware that the early 75 and 76 blocks were better..about 2 to 3 mph better. Jeff Titus knew, as did Cam Morley. Most racers ran pure stock and changed powerheads once the one they were running needed changing. Some motor replacements ran better than others....just lucky!

Now look at the VooDoo:
The complete combination is Steve's #12.....good boat....good motor [bet Steve wished had known about the better blocks] and a driver who raced in many races every year both in the USA and Canada....Lots of RACING seat time.
T850 class minimum weight is 725 lbs......Steve's boat, motor and driver combined weight is over 725 lb....so it would be legal in T.
His motor is a stock 49 OMC.....it passed every inspection both here and in the states....it's legal.
He ran 70 mph in drag.....that is impressive.....wonder how fast that VooDoo would run with a mod 56 or mod 90 yamaha?
NOTICE IN THE VIDEO THAT THE BOAT RUNS FLAT. NOT NOSE HIGH.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41b49Fi ... 4C&index=2
There is no additional 4 to 6 inch set back on that boat. In fact in FE/EP you were not allowed to run any set back period.
In my view I think we are now hurting the handling and increasing the bow lift by adding set backs on the current VooDoos.
I still think the VooDoo is the fastest straightaway boat in the class and that its turning ability can be improved with a better set up.
For drag I think you can legally fill in the 4 inch step at the transom, then the boat has no setback. I would add a cone on the front deck in front of the driver so the on coming air pushes the nose down.


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 PostPosted: January 5th, 2020, 10:26 pm   
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vintage ones work, just need to change out the steering wheel

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Attwood-15-Dia ... SwhYNd6uss

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Boat-S ... Sww4FdgrZf

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Boat-K ... SwcHRdKVfq

https://picclick.com/Vintage-Boat-Steer ... 95869.html

https://www.nlamarine.com/products/vint ... 1692888161

http://www.2040-parts.com/vintage-boat- ... -i1034738/


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 PostPosted: January 5th, 2020, 11:27 pm   
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just found this after some searching.. another source, perhaps..
https://www.portagebaysystems.com/steering.html

these are fancy:
https://cassellmarine.com.au/collection ... olumn-helm

https://cassellmarine.com.au/collection ... n-assembly

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Critchfield T850 OMC 75 49ci
Delta T750 Yamaha 55
1989 Voodoo Yamaha 70
1980 Thundercraft v142 Restored


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 PostPosted: January 6th, 2020, 10:52 am   
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mattmak wrote:


The Fralicks sell most of the same stuff portage bay does, same part numbers etc.

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Jcraft with a ProV 150


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