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LET'S GO DINGHY RACING!!!! $1700.00 for a GOOD BOAT!

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 PostPosted: November 16th, 2017, 6:10 pm   
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JOCKEY SEAT
When your using the boat at cottage you could install one.
It's a nice way to add steering and would be more comfortable for some people
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-powerboat-motor ... nFlag=true
http://www.aquamarineboat.com/images/pr ... m002sc.jpg


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 PostPosted: November 19th, 2017, 11:48 am   
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BACK TO THE BOAT DESIGN

The boat hull we know the most about is the Delta.
It is 12 foot 10 inches with a pointed bow.
Modify the bow and it can easily become a 11 to 12 foot boat.
The design of this hull works great in our T classes and our race courses.
The one change people would like is more angle in the transom so they do not need wedges.
For the smaller motors the pad should be 1 inch wider.

So here is my thought
Delta design
20 inch transom with more angle and with the sides the same height Dinghy style
the floor would be higher than it is now in a Delta to allow for flotation and the higher sides
dinghy covered nose with hand rails

MORE IDEAS ???


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 PostPosted: November 20th, 2017, 7:55 pm   
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http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh5 ... avinz4.jpg

Here is a picture of an 11’ boat a friend built in 1964. He (Peter Music) had a patent (1960ish) on the parallel chine design. This boat was built for someone that worked at Alcan, hence the aluminum bottom. The outer chines had angle aluminum for spray rails. I added the mahogany strakes on the bottom. The boat was very good in rough water. I usually go on Lake Ontario in kingston.

This boat was the basis for my current boat. I kept the 15 degree dead rise and parallel chines. I changed the deck to make it look like the racing runabouts I used to build. And added a 5” pad.

I think the pad is making the boat porpoise. I may make it wider to see if that corrects the problem. I was trying to balance, speed with seaworthiness.

Adding a small deck at the front of a dingy could provide space for floatation. Also hiding floatation in the seats would be good. A motorwell would help the boat from taking on water.

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 PostPosted: November 20th, 2017, 8:01 pm   
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Hydroid wrote:
Hydroid wrote:
For lake use, what HP/..KW, would boat be rated at?
Running this with 30HP Tohatsu @ >50mph, OPPeckerheads will chase it down.
I'd be tempted to put 1957 4cyl Mercury 30H w coned case on it, >60mph.


Just for lake i'd try 15hp OMC with quickie lower; there's 2 OMC 15hp A motors on 6ML rarely used.


A pic of my gt10 with a 15A lower unit and a tiller

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh5 ... hmqejk.jpg

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 PostPosted: November 20th, 2017, 8:45 pm   
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Arltralite wrote:
http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh533/Arltralite/4B669DA1-C556-4D56-87F9-DA2623470BCD_zpsdmavinz4.jpg

Here is a picture of an 11’ boat a friend built in 1964. He (Peter Music) had a patent (1960ish) on the parallel chine design. This boat was built for someone that worked at Alcan, hence the aluminum bottom. The outer chines had angle aluminum for spray rails. I added the mahogany strakes on the bottom. The boat was very good in rough water. I usually go on Lake Ontario in kingston.

This boat was the basis for my current boat. I kept the 15 degree dead rise and parallel chines. I changed the deck to make it look like the racing runabouts I used to build. And added a 5” pad.

I think the pad is making the boat porpoise. I may make it wider to see if that corrects the problem. I was trying to balance, speed with seaworthiness.

Adding a small deck at the front of a dingy could provide space for floatation. Also hiding floatation in the seats would be good. A motorwell would help the boat from taking on water.


Interesting boat. Jamie's current model has no seats. Most dinghy racers have a small canoe style seat at the stern. It would add to the cost but we could have a low boxed in seat at the stern which would add strength to the transom and be a place for flotation or to hide a small 12 volt battery for the motor should a cottage user want electric start. A motor well I could see on a pleasure model but not on a race boat. I don't think the boat needs strakes . The pad will be over an inch deep so the boat will turn. At speed this boat may appear to be running flat, but it will be up on it's pad.

Jamie's plan is NOT to just sell the race boat. He will want to sell them to the general public as well. Racing will be a place to showcase the boat. He could end up with a pure race boat model and more luxury optioned pleasure craft model.


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 PostPosted: November 22nd, 2017, 12:05 pm   
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LEARNED SOMETHING NEW TO-DAY
E-TEC......Model E30DRG
Specifications
Model: E30DRG
Weight: 150 lb. / 68 kg
Shaft Length: 15 in. / 381 mm
Color: Graphite
Gear Ratio: 2.15:1
Starting Method: Rope
Trim Method: Manual Tilt with Shallow Water Drive
Steering: Tiller
Limited Warranty: 3-Years Non-Declining
Engine type: Inline 2-Cylinder E-TEC DI
Displacement: 35.2 cu in./577 cc
Recommended fuel: 87 Octane
Emissions compliance: CARB 3 Star, U.S EPA, European Union
Recommended Oil: Evinrude/Johnson XD100™ Oil
Propshaft HP: 40 hp (30 kW) @ 5500 rpm
Full Throttle RPM Range: 5500-6000 rpm
Alternator output: 81 Amps Total Output/ 25 Amps Net Dedicated
Fuel induction: E-TEC DI w/ Stratified low RPM combustion mode
Lubrication: Multi-point, targeted oiling
Bore x Stroke: 2.588 x 3.6 in. / 91 x 66 mm

NOW I WANT ONE!


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 PostPosted: November 25th, 2017, 12:50 pm   
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BOTTOM AND PAD
I think this is the way Jamie would do the pad. I don't think it would be an inch to an inch and a half deep like we see on the Delta hull.

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxMjAx ... ~/$_59.JPG

The Delta pad is 8.5 inches wide and the transom is 19.5 inches in height.
In maybe? easier, stronger and less costly to have an 8.5 inch pad similar to the one in the picture. For a cottage boat that bottom would be fine.
The racer would be allowed to add an additional piece [composite board] to the pad to give the depth which improves turning and handling with the 30 hp maximum sized motor. That also gives the racer a way to tune their boat I bit different to the other boats.


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 PostPosted: December 9th, 2017, 7:32 am   
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With the Delta bottom design the boat would be a bit longer with the pointed bow. The pointed bow would be better on our current race courses with their longer straights. Our boat is a pad/V hull and the motor will not be as deep in the water like their boat. It will handle different and the stern will not slide like their boat. Ours will track like a T boat and air out more like a T boat on the straights. It will look more like this.
http://dinghyderby.com.au/wp-content/up ... G_4940.jpg

RULES
https://dinghyderby.com.au/wp-content/u ... t-2018.pdf

There are several clubs running Dinghy Races.
Rules and classes do differ from club to club.
This club has raced dinghy class since 1981.
We can alter their rules to fit our boats and classes.
GENERAL RACING RULES would be our current rules and racers would wear cut suits etc. same a SO and T.


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 PostPosted: December 18th, 2017, 4:19 am   
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Hi again,

Starting to get some free time now so will start to work on some design changes for this.

I talked to some guys tied up with the poker run on the St Lawrence and there is a possibility for some racing as part of an event this year. If/when things develop I will share more. Pretty exciting none the less. Things could happen quite quickly once we get some details nailed down.

Hounddog I have been thinking we should meet up when i get back to winter wonderland in February.


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 PostPosted: February 2nd, 2018, 10:14 am   
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There are a couple of ideas we could take from this boat.
-the stern seat only have it lower in the dinghy
- the front seat....the way that its boxed in would be good place to add flotation. That place plus the space below the floor should be enough.
and everything is clean

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-personal-waterc ... nFlag=true


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